How to recognize a Centella allergy: symptoms and test

Centella asiatica, also known as Cica or tiger grass, is considered a gentle active for sensitive skin. Still, some people can be allergic. Here you’ll quickly learn how to reliably recognize a Centella allergy, how to distinguish it from irritation, how a patch test works, and what to do in an acute case. If you already use Centella-containing products from our shop, these steps help you narrow down the cause of your reaction quickly and safely. More basics, risks and how to use in the Centella Guide: benefits, risks and application.

Quick check: interpreting symptoms and timing correctly

Whether you’re allergic to Centella depends not only on the symptoms, but especially on when they appear.

• If the reaction occurs immediately or within minutes, with predominant burning and stinging that subsides quickly after rinsing off, this points more to irritation.
• If itching, redness, swelling, pinpoint blisters, or eczematous areas develop 12 to 48 hours after application, allergic contact dermatitis is more likely.
• If breakouts worsen over days to weeks without marked itching or eczema, it may be purging, not an allergy.
• New reactions in areas that came into contact with the product (e.g., cheeks, forehead, neck) are suspicious. Areas without contact often remain unaffected.
• If you suspect an allergy, stop using the product immediately and observe whether symptoms subside. If it improves clearly within 2 to 5 days, this supports a product-related cause.

To distinguish normal effects from irritation, read: How to tell Centella is working

Allergy, irritation, or purging

The following features help you classify the reaction.

Overuse can cause irritation that mimics an allergy; find guidance on optimal frequency here: How often should I use the Centella ampoule?.

Combinations with retinol can also trigger irritation that looks like an allergy. Tips for safe use: Combine Centella and retinol safely.

Patch test: how to test safely

A patch test can help determine whether Centella or the formulation is causing the reaction.

• Preparation: Choose a small spot on the inner forearm or behind the ear. Skin should be clean and dry.
• Amount: Apply a pea-sized amount of product thinly to a marked area of about 2 x 2 cm.
• Cover: Optionally cover with a breathable bandage to keep contact consistent.
• Duration: Leave the product on the spot for 24 hours. Do not wash, moisturize, or rub.
• Observation 0 to 24 hours: Immediate irritation argues against an allergy. Document with a photo.
• After 24 hours: Remove the bandage, gently pat dry, and observe for another 24 to 48 hours. Allergic reactions often appear with a delay.
• Assessment: Itching, marked redness, swelling, blisters, or eczema 12 to 48 hours after application suggest an allergy. Mild burning that disappears quickly does not.
• Repeat: Test the product for 2 to 3 days in a row on the same spot to better reflect real-life sensitization.
• Note: If you react, pause all Centella-containing products. For unclear results or strong reactions, consult dermatology for professional patch testing.

What to do if you react

• Stop immediately and rinse the affected area with lukewarm water.
• Soothe the skin: cool compresses; a mild, fragrance-free moisturizer with few ingredients.
• Pause other potentially irritating actives until the skin normalizes.
• Warning signs to see a doctor: severe swelling, oozing eczema, spread beyond contact zones, eyelid involvement, breathing difficulties.
• If known, note which form of Centella was included. This helps avoid future triggers.
• Find gentle alternatives without Centella here: Products for sensitive skin.

INCI check: how Centella appears on the label

Look for the following names on the ingredient list. Avoid them for now if you suspect a Centella allergy.

• Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf/Root Extract
• TECA or Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica
• Asiaticoside, Madecassoside
• Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid
• Gotu Kola, Hydrocotyle Asiatica (older names)
• Cica as a marketing name can indicate Centella-derived ingredients

FAQ

How can I tell if I’m allergic to Centella?

Watch the timing: If itching, redness, swelling, or blisters occur 12 to 48 hours after application, allergic contact dermatitis is likely. Confirm with a patch test on the forearm or behind the ear. Pause all Centella products and check the INCI list for Centella Asiatica, TECA, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, or Madecassic Acid. For severe or persistent symptoms, seek dermatologic evaluation.

What side effects does Centella asiatica have?

Topically, Centella is generally well tolerated but can cause individual side effects. Common are mild, brief irritation such as burning or redness immediately after application. More rarely, an allergy with delayed itching, eczema, and swelling occurs. Risk increases with a compromised skin barrier, very high concentrations, or irritating combinations. Photosensitization is not known. If reactions occur, stop use and patch test to clarify.

Can I use Centella with eczema or rosacea?

Many people with eczema or rosacea benefit from Centella’s soothing properties, but some are sensitive. Always patch test new products and start with low frequency. Avoid strong peels, fragrance, or alcohol in the same routine. If itching, eczema, or burning occurs, stop the product and confirm the diagnosis with a doctor before using Centella again. More info: Does Centella help rosacea?.