Hair Porosity:
The one thing
your haircare routine is missing
If your hair mask is not working the way it should, or your hair feels weighed down, or it soaks up products but dries out an hour later: the answer is almost always porosity. Here is how to figure out yours and choose the right Japanese treatment for it.
Why the same product works differently for everyone
You and your friend both buy the same Japanese hair mask. She raves about it. Your hair feels greasy and flat. Or the opposite: hers feels nothing, yours transforms overnight. Same product, completely different result. This is not about product quality. It is about porosity.
Hair porosity describes how easily your hair absorbs and retains moisture. It is determined by the structure of the cuticle, the outer layer of each hair strand. Some people have tightly sealed cuticles that resist absorbing anything. Others have open, raised cuticles that take in everything but cannot hold it. Most people sit somewhere in between. Knowing where you fall changes everything about how you should approach your routine.
Low, medium, or high: which are you?
Porosity is not a flaw. Every type has its own strengths and its own challenges. The goal is not to change your porosity but to work with it.
Low Porosity
Tightly closed cuticlesMoisture and products struggle to get in. Water beads on the surface instead of absorbing. Hair can look healthy but feel dry because products sit on top without penetrating. Heat helps open the cuticle temporarily. Lightweight formulas work better than thick, protein-heavy ones.
Medium Porosity
Balanced cuticlesThe most flexible type. Absorbs moisture well and holds it for a reasonable time. Responds well to most treatments. Easy to color and style. Requires less maintenance than the other two types. Most Japanese hair masks are formulated with this type in mind.
High Porosity
Open or damaged cuticlesAbsorbs moisture quickly but loses it just as fast. Hair that has been bleached, heat-styled frequently, or chemically treated is often high porosity. It can feel dry despite absorbing a lot of product. Heavy, sealing formulas and protein treatments work best.
Porosity is partly genetic, but it is also influenced by how you treat your hair over time. Chemical treatments, frequent heat, UV exposure, and even hard water can raise the cuticle and shift your hair toward higher porosity. This means your hair's needs can change, and your routine should change with it.
"Your hair is not difficult. It just has needs that no one has explained to you yet. Once you understand porosity, everything else starts to make sense."NoticeMe Team
The float test: a simple way to check
Take a clean strand of hair (no product on it) and drop it into a glass of room-temperature water. Watch what happens over two to four minutes.
It floats near the top: Low porosity. Your cuticles are tight and water-resistant.
It sinks slowly to the middle: Medium porosity. A good balance of absorption and retention.
It sinks quickly to the bottom: High porosity. Your cuticles are open and absorb water fast.
This test is not 100% precise, and factors like hair density can influence the result. But it gives a useful starting indication. The more reliable method is paying attention to how your hair behaves with products: if masks feel heavy and your hair looks flat, you are likely low porosity. If your hair dries out fast and drinks up everything without staying moisturized, high porosity is more likely.
Fino vs Tsubaki: which one matches your hair?
Both masks come from Shiseido and are two of the most searched Japanese haircare products in Europe right now. They look similar on the shelf. But they are built for different hair types, and choosing the wrong one is exactly why some people are disappointed.
- Fino Premium Touch for high porosity hair Fino is a repair mask built for damaged, bleached, or heat-treated hair. It contains royal jelly, squalane, and dimethicone, which coat and seal the cuticle. This is intentional: it fills the gaps in raised or damaged cuticles, creating a smooth, shiny surface. For high porosity hair, this sealing effect is exactly what is needed. The result is intense shine and softness. For low porosity hair, the same formula can feel heavy and build up on the surface. Fino can be used every wash if your hair needs it.
- Tsubaki Premium Repair for low to medium porosity hair Tsubaki is built around camellia oil, a lightweight Japanese botanical oil that has been used for centuries for hair and skin. Its fast-penetrating formula sinks into the hair fiber quickly, which is what low porosity hair actually needs: something that can get through those tight cuticles. It also contains royal jelly, soy protein, and hyaluronic acid for added moisture and structure. The lighter texture means no greasiness or buildup. Used once or twice a week as a treatment.
- The overlap Both masks work well for medium porosity hair. If that is you, the deciding factor is damage level: if your hair is color-treated or frequently heat-styled, Fino gives you more repair. If it is relatively healthy and you want shine and softness, Tsubaki is the more elegant choice.
Choose Fino if…
- Your hair is bleached, highlighted, or chemically treated
- You frequently use heat tools: straighteners, curling irons, blow dryer
- Your hair feels dry and brittle despite regular conditioning
- You want maximum shine and a smooth, sealed finish
- You have coarse, thick, or frizzy hair that is hard to tame
- Your hair soaks up product fast but still feels dry an hour later
Choose Tsubaki if…
- Your hair is fine, straight, or medium thickness
- Products tend to weigh your hair down or leave buildup
- Your hair looks healthy but feels dry or lacks shine
- You prefer a lightweight mask you can use without rinsing quickly
- You have low porosity hair that resists absorbing thick products
- You want something for weekly care rather than intensive repair
The routine tweak that makes everything else work better
Understanding your hair's porosity is not complicated, but most people never think about it. They buy the most popular product, use it, and either love it or feel disappointed. The product is usually fine. The mismatch is the problem.
Once you know your porosity, Japanese haircare makes a lot of sense. The formulas are thoughtful, the ingredient quality is high, and the results are real. Fino and Tsubaki are both excellent masks. The key is choosing the one that matches your hair's actual needs rather than the one with the most likes on TikTok.
Both are in stock at NoticeMe. If you are still not sure which one suits your hair, send us a message and we will help you figure it out.
Japanese haircare that actually fits your hair.
Shop Fino and Tsubaki at NoticeMe · Always free samples